
Monday, December 31, 2007
angelic

Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Louis L'Amour
Coming to this village, you get off at the end of the bus line and start walking along the edge of the field. At the corner, follow the track to the left- but then shortly after that, a foot path veers off to the right and you leave the main track on it. This takes you right to the lip of what looks like a sharp drop-off; turns out, it's steep but sloped. There's not much growing except scrubby brushy looking things- short, rough and tough. The path goes over the edge down into a 'bowl' full of this scruffy stuff. At one point, it bends around a bush that you can hang onto if you want as you navigate a particularly steep place. From this part of the path, you look out over the valley and get your bearings- there are numerous tracks down there and it's important to find the 'used-to-be-bridge' and aim for it- take that bend first and then that one to the left. Down on the bottom, you just go forward. In the summer, this was all hard cracked land and you could make a fairly straight shot. Now, however, there's been rain and you suddenly remember that there is actually- I suppose it's a backwater of the sea running back into this valley. Well, it's pure muck right now. Anyway, it's a great walk in the summer and I always feel like some cowboy without a horse heading off into the bottom lands, across the flat and then up the other side again. (Or, if it's been a rough day- I feel like a hobbit heading into the dead lands around Mordor.)
So, umm, oh yes- Louis L'Amour- well, he'll do...although I have yet to get into a gunfight- real or otherwise. I still wonder if you really could 'eat' that much lead, keep on shooting, walk into the desert, collapse and manage to survive, but anyway.
Monday, December 24, 2007
life
One of our friends is dying. She's often been ill, but this fall, her family finally convinced her to go to the Dr- diagnosis? Diabetes, high blood pressure, liver and kidney failure. She's 43. And has always reminded me of my own mom. Anyway, they live in a village 'at the end of the world'. Had a night train into Odessa; fish sandwich at McD's for b'fast (at 6am); 1 hour by bus to Yuzhniy (a port city on the Black Sea- and it's COLD in Yuzhniy); 30 min bus ride to the end of the road...and then 20 min walk through the fields to the village. I forgot what it's like when it's muddy...wow! Thankfully, it was mostly frozen today. Still managed to add a few inches to my height by the time I got where I was going.
Anyway- spent several hours with them. It reminds me again that it's not easy to die and it's not easy to watch someone you love go that last stretch. Especially when that someone is the mom that took care of you always- that took care of everybody. Both the sick lady and her hus are deaf, so that complicates things as far as communication (for me). Hard to know just what to stay. So you just hold a hand and stand there.
I'm at the neighbor's for the night- also our friends, also deaf. The boys were here the end of last week and will come again this week. What more? Don't know- I guess I'll keep you posted...
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Sun afternoon
soak the pusu (dried tiny fishies!) in water till soft; grind garlic with the mortar and pestel, and add fish and grind some more. In a bowl, mix flour, diced onions and fish/garlic mixture; add salt, chili powder and water. Drop by spoonfuls into hot oil; fry both sides well. Eat! (Dip in chili sauce- this is Malaysian chili sauce- very red and nice n hot!)
Saturday, December 22, 2007
How's this?
The pic (if it posts) is JennaMae Nicole and she just turned 3! Yes, she's related to me (unlucky child)- my sister's. Word is that she got a giant toy horse (not sure how big exactly) that she insisted on taking to bed with her (but her Momma snuck in and took it out once JM had fallen asleep). And, she's being rather protective of the horsie- snarling at any sibling that gets too close.
guess
Since I didn't get a card out- either snail-mail or ecard- I'll get her this way! Happy Happy Birthday, Karla! Too bad I haven't figured out how to post pix from my iPAQ...so you really got lucky! Ha! Hope it's a great day!
xo
Monday, December 17, 2007
double ok

************************************************************************************

ok
Ok- anyway. Bill got back from Africa; when he went through Poland, he picked up the mail (Yay- way better than Santa Clause has a hope of ever being.) SOMEBODY'S mom (!!x0x0!!) knitted 2 scarves and a hat (the hat matches one of the scarves) and sent them to Pol. B sent our stuff to the capitol via bus; last night, Sharon W put it on a train to our city. This am, sometime between 5 and 6, Sharon A headed off to the station to meet that train. Just before 7, back she comes- ahhhhh... I LOVE my 2 scarves and hat. They are so great...they are 'haha-I-have-them-and-you-don't' great; they are cuddly and warm; they are nice and thick; they are pretty; do you want to hear more??? :) They are from MY MOM!!! I was going to take a pic with S' cell phone and post it but turns out her phone doesn't have a camera...hmmm... you'll just have to imagine it...and some other day, I'll post pix. I have never (never!) had a hand-knit scarf and hat set (!so this is all fun for me!) and I've never been able to wear a hat because of my hair or head or something...but this one works! And the super cool thing? My hair stick pokes through...ok, we might have to do something drastic, like change the 'do' for the winter... ahhh... now you know... (for all of you who get bored with this kind of chatter, just come back another day!)
Monday, December 10, 2007
Confession
That last post is bringing back a flood of memories, including this one (and then I have to try to sleep since our train gets in shortly before 5am):
After 9 months in Ukraine, I had the thrill (it was believe me) of 6 weeks in Germany, summer of 2001.
Linda S and I left Kyiv together, arriving into Berlin (after nearly 48 hours on trains)...in the middle of what turned out to be Europe's annual Love Parade...ummm...well, it was umm...shocking to say the least, after growing up, living and working in the MidWest and then spending a year in 'post-Soviet' still very protected Ukraine (girls who are close friends walk down the street holding hands for no other reason than that they're close friends, if you know what I mean). The Love Parade is a gay and lesbian festival and I guess I'll leave it at that- except to say that L & I both had roaring headaches from the crowds and noise before we got out of the Berlin train station. In fact, one more thing- it was so bad that I was nearly in tears, thought Berlin must be the modern 'Sodom and Gomorrhoa' (sp?) and nearly had a panic attack knowing that I couldn't just get on the first train heading back east to Ukraine. I was relieved to find out that this was far from normal for Berlin or Germany.
Back to the story. After several very special annual mtgs there in Germany, I had some time with Allen and Cami N, who were living there at the time. It was blissful. Mik was a happy bubbly 2 1/2 (or 3?) year old, Mich was just learning to walk and A & C were so 'my age' so Amer and so 'just-what-the-doctor-ordered'. I came home from conv with them; Cami sat in back with the kids and I was in front with an excellent view, unfortunately, of the road and the speedometer. Well, after 9 months of buses that seldom went 60 mph, the autobahn with no speed limit terrified me. I kept telling myself, "This man's wife and kids are in the back seat; he's not driving like a maniac because he's not a maniac and his wife and kids..." Thankfully, I got used to fast cars and fast (and good) roads again before the summer was over...and when I was home, loved driving just as much as ever!
Another day
Now, the thing about Ukraine is things have changed faster than your average toddler can empty a cupboard (Hi Chloe! I saw my own niece JennaMae in action, so I know what your mom means when she says you're fast)! So, 7 years ago when I arrived there was no such thing as ice tea in a bottle. Nor was there ice coffee (that's important) in a bottle. L'viv (population around 800,000) had 1 store with grocery carts (GROCERY CARTS!!- when you're down, go there just to push the cart and choose your own products off the shelf- loiter and linger to make it last) and it looked like a warehouse with skin disease. There was also a McDonald's about 20 min from our apt and we ate there once a week for sanity's sake. Kyiv was a total rush because you could find Oreos and Reese's PB Cups there, not to mention, Kyiv was just plain cool...in fact Kyiv is still just plain cool (I mean, they have a TGIFriday). Buses were a total nightmare 'back then'- the most common bus was big, red, ancient (called 'Icarus') and one memorable trip I was sitting just behind the driver and could see the speedometer-which rarely got over 70km/hr (that's about 43 mph) and it wasn't at all unusual to have to stand at least part of the trip, sometimes for hours AND you invariably snagged something as you maneuvered the aisle- there were always sharp things sticking out, lurking, in fact, in dark but impossible to avoid places. And, something I just remembered- all winter you saw people approach their seat, turn around and deftly flip their coats up so that the outside (which shows, you know) wouldn't come in touch with the seat- which was likely dirty. Back then, DeAnn and I decided that we'd make our first million designing and selling a contraption that people would wear (sort of like a hoop skirt) under their coats- they'd push a button and it would flip the coat up out of harm's way, saving precious moments of 'grab-that-seat-before-someone-else-does' time.
Now, buses are mostly clean, snag-free and 'new'; they run many more buses and we seldom have to stand anymore. Even Izmail and Drohobych have multiple really nice 'grocery cart' stores- if you don't like bazaars or stores where all goods are on shelves behind the counter and you have to ask for everything, you seldom need to go to either. I don't know when I last saw someone flip their coat up to sit down- there are 'European drycleaners' all over; I guess it's easier to take care of long coats- plus seats are cleaner.
Tonight we're on a train and when we got our sheets, they were still damp... And that brought all this to mind. It's the first time in I don't know how long that's happened, although it used to be common. So, that's why I suddenly got fired up enough to do another post... That, AND, remember I said we can get bottled ice coffee now? Well, see, there was only 1 ice tea anywhere near the train station tonight- so I gave it to Sharon and got a coffee for myself (which she doesn't know- Hi S!)...significant because I can keep myself awake and hyper much easier in the 'new and improved' land we live in than 7 years ago! Oh yeah- and I can get on the web and surf it for a mere UAH 20/month (the equivalent of $4) with my handheld and cell phone- it's a decent 'faster-than-dial-up' connection...so I find that I can blog from stations and trains and buses- as long as my carrier has a tower nearby... It's a rough life... ahhhh
Auntie H
More about Auntie H. They live in a village at the end of a perpetually muddy road. The house is typical for the village- 1 story,1 door, chilly, damp & not particularly convenient. BUT unlike most village houses, it has Auntie H in it. The first time I was there, we gathered up all the chairs and stools in the house (not that many) and set them on both sides of the hall (before they had gas heat, this was the warmest place in the house). There was 1 footstool right by Auntie H and she said to me, "You sit here and be my daughter!" Well, I don't suppose it's hard to imagine my feelings for her. No wonder that, even though I didn't know them well- they were in Bill's area, after all, not ours and nearly 24 hours travel time from where we were- no wonder I had to take Mom and Dad out there! Auntie H is not pretty to look at- she's had a hard life and she's probably been in survival mode most of it and it shows. I used to think she was an old lady (she certainly doesn't look young and has 2 grown daughters)- she's 2 years older than my dad. She is 100% loving mom and really one of the best cooks I've met (I mean, it wasn't her fault that we'd never EATEN udder before).
This time she parked us at her kitchen table, dished up soup and salad and made sure there was plenty of bread and butter and cookies and tea and I think there was more, but anyway, you get the picture. Then she says, "I got a letter..." and her eyes got sort of leaky. She pulls this letter out- it's from Bill who's been in Africa the last 2 months. She gives it to us to read and says, "He signed it 'your son'." Well, that made her whole month. She loves us all but she especially loves Bill and V, who first went to see them.
I'm having a hard time really portraying this like it is. The house is still cold, very damp, nothing is easy there and never has been easy (although it's better, by far, than it used to be). But, walking into Auntie H's is like finding a well-tended rose garden after slogging through the barnyard.
There will be more changes after the new year- but for now, I'm happy to be over here with Sharon and soaking up some of Auntie H's special care again. I'll be so rotten nobody'll be able to stand me!
xo
Monday, December 3, 2007
ahhhhh.....
It's all relevant
which is why I'm having a hard time shutting up and going to bed! But, I must...so- Wednesday, November 28, 2007
You can never...
Quick update: left last Weds- night train to Chernivtsi (the L'viv-Chernivtsi trains have never won prizes); Thur through Fri am with V & L out in the mountains- lovely, great to see them...and icy cold. Fri most of the day on buses. Saw D in KP- he was sick but cooked supper for us anyway. On to Letichiv for the night- T had been there and built a fire, so it was warm...ahhh! Water already off, though, so just went to bed! Left there Mon am and got back here about 4pm... got a burning urge to do laundry right away- I love washers!
We're leaving in ummmm, 20 min. 20 min?! Yikes... 'bye!
and thanks, everyone, for eating all that pumpkin and pecan pie for me...and turkey and dressing, too, I hope. T'day was never so fun! or vicarious! :-)
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Shazam
Part 1: Trude made this for supper the other night. (Note: Ukr'ns love porridge type hot cereals and Cream of Wheat is one of many that we often get. The link is not for a breakfast food, though.) It was good and there was some of it leftover.
Yest, I boiled chicken (with the bones) with bay leaves, oregano, basil and thyme (liberally added), chicken bouillon, several garlic cloves and several med onions, quartered. Simmered it for about 5 hours. Quartered potatoes and chopped carrots and added them about 30 min before serving.
Now, the deal with chicken soup (in my opinion): it's good for sick people. But very hard to get it flavored in a lip-smacking YUMMY way. This rendition was OK but nothing to blog about (I'm laughing...hahaha).
We decided that the above 2 dishes might be pretty good heated up together. Also, we downloaded a bunch of Patricia Cornwell books which we read when we're on the road. Her main character does a bunch of cooking and makes chicken soup with wine.
Part 2: Started by pouring about 1/4 cup of rather aged red grape juice in a kettle, adding enough soup for 2 and then judiciously spooning in some of the semolina and heating it well.
Result: pretty good- the soup definitely had some zip this time! Interesting flavor. I'm doing the rest of the soup without the semolina but with just the rather aged red grape juice... that should be a winner.
Since you'll all soon have lots of leftover poultry...
speaking of: What ARE you all doing for Thanksgiving? There are no Americans within spitting distance (or even all night trains, for a change) who are interested in T'day with us so we're just going to be running around visiting people...which will be GREAT after nearly 2 weeks here in the bache... So, please, I implore you, eat some pumpkin pie for us and don't feel guilty! Those will be OUR calories and won't show at all...I'm pretty sure...
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Shouldn't have taken a shower this morning

OK- I'll admit it- I've had more time than usual on my hands this week and last- what with getting sick, Trude getting sick, T having to cross the border, then K & me crossing and T's still not quite up to par. Next week we should be back on the go and I likely won't be writing about smelly handymen...
Which is what they are. See, a LONG time ago (3 months anyway) we had a phone line put in- supposed to be digital so we could hook up to the phone company's broadband. Of course, they got that wrong. So, T- being half Ukr'n herself by now and having an ingenious mind, talked to the downstairs neighbor- How about you up your internet package, we'll split the costs with you and splice into your connection? He was delighted- he gets a faster connection out of the deal and we have internet. Great. It worked wonderfully well. The 1st floor lady had the same idea 2 weeks ago- can we plug into your switch (and the kid on some other floor)? We'll split the costs 4 ways. (Once again Mr Downstairs will go and order a faster connection- but we'll all pay less per month than we do now!) So, today Mr No-Shower and his son, same last name, are here hooking up the other moochers... I mean cooperators. That's what we are. And we're all happy (except my happiness would increase slightly if they'd showered... or put on clean clothes this am or something). That's standard protocol here- share and share alike... just ask Duane about kids and tests and that policy. Really, American teachers present lessons that are supposed to foster teamwork...but these folks have it figured out: just make it impossible to pass a test or afford it or acquire it or whatever WITHOUT teamwork. Works like a charm. (I kid you not- in Izmail, there are 20 apts in the entrance where ours was- of those 20 something like 17 of them were all hooked up to the same cable TV connection- stairwell was a mass of spliced cables running everywhere.)
One more thing! Who's seen Ellery's latest post?! Ok, that would be her Dad's latest! Big smiles and hugs to all 4 but esp to Holly!
Friday, November 16, 2007
woot woot
Ukraino! Ukraino!
Karen F and I spent last night with her 2nd cousins- had a nice time. After breakfast this am, they arranged for an acquaintance to take us to the nearest border crossing. An hour or so later, there we were. He parked the car and we walked up to the guards, showed our papers, got our stamps and approximately 10 min later, were back in the car, heading for the train station. No one had any questions, no one barely even cared that we were there... In fact, the female guard smiled and chatted and the male guard almost cracked a smile, too... Well well well...
When we got back in the car, it struck me just how attached I am to this place. The thought of possibly being denied the 'privilege' of standing for hours on cold corners waiting for buses, sitting in drafty train stations waiting for trains, slopping through the muck and mud, constantly having to guard your place in any line and, of course, living without Mountain Dew, for the most part- well, it was an unpleasant prospect. K's cousin's wife asked how I liked Ukr- and I said, "Really, it feels like my own." And I guess that's true! I'm glad we're back!
So, K & I are on the train- she's headed to the capital city; I'll get out about 1/2 hour from our bache and head 'home'.
What I want to try now is to post this from my iPAQ via my mobile phone. Let's see how good Google really is!
Take care you all! xo
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
blowing up, part 2
Karen F is here and she said, "You have another gas leak- in the kitchen and in the bathroom".
"Impossible in the bathroom," I say; "there is no gas connection in there." But Trude said there was. Sure enough, the mangy open-ended pipe dangling down from the ceiling used to supply the water heater that used to stand in the corner... and upon sniffing the end of that pipe, well, you could say it had that sulfur smell of a natural gas leak. Also, in the kitchen by the sink there was a faint smell.
Having learned our lesson very well the last time, phoned the emergency service and they came right over.
Turns out Pan Landlord was supposed to cap (cap, of all things) the end of the no-longer-in-use gas line; AND the duct that vents the current water heater (which is in the corner above the kitchen sink) is legally supposed to be completely closed off and concealed. Their words today were, "We have the right to shut off your gas right now because that is in violation."
Trude called Pan Landlord and let the gas men talk to him. He's coming over to fix it...supposedly.
Really, with all that man (Pan Landlord) has done for us, it is surprising that we are still among the living... everything he was responsible for has been re-done because of major catastrophes... we'll leave them for later posts, maybe; they are better left in the cobwebby corners of your conscience, really- except to take a lesson to never never ever do it THAT way...
So, tomorrow we go try our luck at the border...
Monday, November 12, 2007
10 more things
See I have this little nearly-5 year old nephew (a real drop dead beautiful child *clears throat*) whose thing was to say: Wait! I have 10 more things to tell you...
I think he really is genetically related to me (and I'm not referring to his looks hahaha).
So, you all have a good one! We are off Weds am to see how seriously a mysterious 90 day stay resolution is being enforced...if you next hear from me from Pol or Hungary or some such place, you'll know that they are feeling rather 'enforce-y'
ta-ta!
Sunday, November 11, 2007
my ears hurt...from laughing
Lesya has been complaining all fall that the smell from the boys’ room is really bad and that she gets sick to her stomach just having to go to the basin to brush her teeth (which must be in a common area).
This a.m., after our time together, we got the blow-by-blow of the ‘landlady-renter’ encounter a few weeks ago. I wish I’d had a tape recorder and I wish you could all understand Ukie…because there’s no way I’ll get it down…but here goes:
A (hands on hips in tough lady stance-which she really isn’t, by the way): OK, you boys. Listen up! Apparently neither of your mothers ever taught you anything.
This is your first time away from home living among people and you obviously DON’T KNOW how to do it decently. Now, I’ve been telling you EVERY SINGLE DAY for the past 2 months that there is always hot water downstairs in the bathroom and that it’s for you to use while you live here. Now, 1 of you HAS NOT HAD A BATH since you came. And it really stinks in here. I’ve never smelled anything like it. The smell from your armpits wafts out and knocks you out and the neighbor girl and her friend wrote a poem – A POEM – about your smelly feet. DID YOU KNOW THAT?! Now look here, I’ve left you alone, this is your room, I don’t bug you…but you say you have a girlfriend…how does she even stand being next to you…if it were me, why I’d be a full KILOMETER away…AT LEAST!
Now I want you to RIGHT NOW get out clean clothes- right now so I can see each article- socks, yes; underwear, yes; pants, yes; shirt, yes- and I want you to go down there RIGHT NOW and bathe- not just ‘wash’…and you’re to do that once a week from NOW ON! Now, I know that you’re someone’s child and they love you and you’re a person and I don’t want to hurt your feelings or your mother’s, but this has gone on long enough. If your mother isn’t here to tell you then I will…And, he did…right then…everything she said…and since then, every Thursday evening when she’s on her way home, she calls him and says, “Now we’ll be home in

I suppose once a week is downright frequent after that…
Saturday, November 10, 2007
comfort food
Wednesday, November 7, 2007
bug
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Crabby, achy, hot then cold and a headache and sore throat to boot... I think I'm sick... probably got it from Brett...from reading his mom's blog. Yup.
The pic? Well, the dog has no ears (they cut them off when he was a pup to make him a better guard dog- probably that makes him crabby); his name is 'Zhuk' which means 'bug' which is what I seem to have...plus I'm crabby. It all fits...
Monday, November 5, 2007
Surviving is healthy
Коли бют – то втікай
Learned the above tonight. It means- "If they're giving - accept; If they're beating [as in hitting, fighting] - flee"
Well, that sounds like good advice! Guess it's a common expression here.

This little doggie, pictured beside his favorite buffet (the local dumpster) is a master of survival and no doubt lives by the above truism.

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